The Hema Committee report on the Malayalam film industry has caused a stir. Women who endured long periods of physical and mental abuse have revealed many secrets. These revelations aren't just confined to Kerala or the film industry; their shadow extends to the fashion industry too.
Source: aajtak
Source: aajtak
Source: aajtak
One model says over the phone, 'Young girls here are surrounded by predators one, two, or many at a time. You have to comply with whatever is told. In this intensely intimate industry, there are no rules, no written contracts. You are successful as long as you remain silent.'
It's not easy to penetrate this silence. Even with assurance of anonymity, many models refuse to talk. Some agree but narrate their experiences as something that happened to a 'friend'.
Only one says, 'Having a powerful godfather is crucial for survival. No one will mess with you, except him.' A harsh laugh over the phone.
It was around 18 when I was shortlisted for a major fashion show. A scout noticed me at a shopping mall.
Scout meaning an agent?
Sort of. They are local-level agents who scout for models at airports, malls, or any prominent place and then connect them to big agents.
Within weeks, I received a train ticket to Mumbai and an address. The email didn't say much other than that there would be a small test—a formality, as the third-party agent assured over the phone.
Upon reaching, there was a line of girls at the apartment. Each one a near-perfect Xerox of the other: tall, slim, young, with twinkling eyes. I waited my turn.
Two people were in the room. One asked, 'Can we see you without your top, if you don't mind?' I hesitated for a moment but did as they asked.
'Can you pose like this? If you're uncomfortable, don't.' said another voice, soft but almost slimy.
In about 15 minutes, several such requests followed. One of them felt me from head to toe, saying, 'Meant for this,' wrapped in a smile.
They were seasoned industry professionals. I got to know their names later. Surprisingly, still no call for work.
This is a well-tested tactic in modeling. Any demand here is posed as a request. With a touch of English flattery - 'If you're uncomfortable, feel free to deny.' But imagine, young girls, some barely older than children, how can they refuse seasoned industry veterans who can make or break their careers in minutes? Add to that the intense competition.
If you refuse, someone else will take your place.
I wasn't from a big city. But I looked decent, spoke passable English, was not fussy about food or drink. My family had cut ties, so I was almost free. Yet the dictionary here was a maze.
There's a term called 'Go-see' here. The agent sends me to meet potential clients or those who could give me work.
These meetings often happened in deserted apartments. Maybe you'd be safe today, but tomorrow or the day after, your turn will come. It has to.
After being forced, the designer took a sip of juice and in English said - 'Your upper portion is quite heavy. Work on it.'
Source: aajtak
I wondered while adjusting my clothes if this would finally get me work!
Many others later said the same thing - 'too mature.' That's the term for somewhat heavier people here. No one would outright call you fat. At 18, I was considered too mature for modeling.
So did you work on it?
No. Now I’m 28. After struggling for a few years, I eventually left the industry. I do everything else now. I voice-over, select fabrics for designers, and have even started investing in stocks. Modeling is like boiling milk; you might be on a cover or in a big show one minute and vanish the next.
Models over 30 are considered old. For girls, it’s even sooner. Agents with white hair often say – 'You're not as fresh anymore. For shows, we need a fresh face.' As if we are not women but dairy products with a 'best before' date.
And there are many other hurdles. During shoots, models often have to change clothes in front of many unfamiliar people. They will keep staring at you. You must keep a blank face even as they inspect every curve, lest they label you 'difficult' or 'loud' and replace you.
Those who speak freely refuse to reveal their real names.
You’ve left the industry, so what's the problem now?
I may be retired, but I am still part of it. If my name is revealed, I could lose my work.
Another call with Divya, a self-proclaimed 'small-town girl.'
First couple-show I got, my partner told the designer, 'I need a prettier girl. She feels like a gourd.' And he said this loud enough for everyone to hear. It froze me on stage, and though that model never crossed paths again, I never forgot it.
The journey from a small town to Mumbai wasn’t easy. First boss's first lesson was: Drink everything except water.
Smoke cigarettes. It kills hunger. Drink alcohol. It builds connections. Drink juice. It gives glow.
I wanted to ask which glow it would give after staying up all night for a post-event party and then heading to a shoot, but I never did.
Post-event party is optional, you could’ve declined!
There are no choices in the fashion world. Big names attend these parties. If you catch even one person's eye, you’d get some work.
How much do you earn per show, roughly?
It depends. If it's a big show, then good earnings. But such work doesn't come often. In between small jobs, I’ve worked for free, hoping clients would notice me. Sometimes, there's no assignment. One must do everything...
Does everything include compromise?
Have you never been angry at him, your godfather? Never refused him?
I was a kid when I came here. A love for chocolates and tantrums. Then he 'placed his hand' over me. Other girls watched with jealousy. I started getting work. Even if it was a lie, I had someone in the city. Refusing him was out of the question. I complied with every demand. Now it's been years.
Source: aajtak
But for how many more years will this continue?
I know. A new face, new vibes will replace me. There was someone before me, and there will be someone after. But I've come so far that I can’t return home now. That's a different world. I can’t adjust there nor can my family accept me.
No contact with family?
Shortly after moving to Mumbai, I kept in touch with my mother. She’d ask me to return, promising to educate and marry me off… But ‘he’ asked me to cut contact, saying it’d distract me from work.
Have you ever thought of starting your own family?
No. Does it matter what I think? Outsiders see us no different from professional girls. There’s no space for a genuine relationship in my career...
The third model, Rewa, responds via a call arranged through industry contacts. She agrees reluctantly, suggesting a fake name herself.
‘If I whine about my problems, you might listen quietly over the phone, but you won’t truly sympathize. If I say I’ve gained weight, you'd get irritated. Our problems aren't seen as real-world problems by others.’
Her WhatsApp DP shows a slender girl with a thin face and large eyes that seem stitched on.
I was a foodie. Back home, I’d have snacks every evening. I wasn't scared of oil or sweets. Everything changed after entering the industry. I remember my stomach growling with hunger, with an upcoming show.
We learned these tricks after joining the industry. The flatter your stomach, the better the dress fits. Despite being 5'11, I’ve always weighed between 40-42 kg. Models weigh themselves every morning, noon, and before bed. It's standard. Sometimes more frequently during shows. Names don’t matter much in our profession; the model card does. What’s that? Every model has a card with their latest photo and measurements: height, weight, and size of various body parts. Agencies hold these cards and provide them to clients. These numbers are our identity, unless we secure solid contacts! People think we get paid for a few minutes on the ramp or an Instagram post. But the truth is, we get paid for starving. Nearly every model fights hunger daily. They know all tricks to minimize hunger. Some lose control and eat to their fill but make themselves throw up before digestion. Many eating disorder clinics are populated with girls like us. Most people work to fill their stomachs. We get paid as long as we keep ours empty. Any union or association working for you? Never seen any. Maybe there is, but I’m unaware. Many models say the same. In Mumbai, there may be some associations, but they aren’t formal bodies drawing a strong line between models and clients. Rewa says: 16-17-year-old girls often come to Mumbai after family disputes, with no connections. They do everything to survive. Mentioning the Malayalam film industry, she adds: I wouldn’t say I’ve escaped it completely.
