'Silky tresses, enchanting eyes...'
'When your hair flutters, young hearts race..'
'O beauty with the flowing hair, captivating hearts everywhere...'
The allure of luscious locks has been celebrated by poets and filmmakers alike. It has even been the subject of praise from lovers to one another.
Over time, while hair beauty has been predominantly associated with women, it has significant importance in men's aesthetics too. But what happens if you lose that crown of hair?
Aging, illness, vitamin or protein deficiency, hormone imbalance, genetics—there are numerous reasons leading to hair fall in both men and women.
However, some people from the past devised innovative solutions for baldness, with wigs being a notable one. Modern variations have since evolved, including hair patches, toppers, and extensions.
Despite innovations, numerous questions persist. What exactly are wigs or patches? How are they made, where does the hair originate from, and are they genuinely safe?
This 'Hair Story' seeks to provide comprehensive answers to all your hair-related queries. But before diving into modern solutions, it's worth a peek into the history of hair wigs, which has stood the test of time.
The History of Hair Wigs
The history of wigs and extensions is as old as it is fascinating. Ancient civilizations, too, valued their hair as much as we do today.
The use of hair extensions dates back to around 3400 BC, in ancient Egypt. Having long, voluminous hair was a significant status symbol, worn by leaders, pharaohs, and queens.
When discussing Egypt, one inevitably thinks of Queen Cleopatra. She was known to wear extensions and wigs to enhance the thickness and richness of her hair.
Archaeologists have even found evidence suggesting that Cleopatra wrapped sheep's wool around her hair to add volume, arguably the first instance of hair extensions.
Egyptians are often credited with inventing the wig around that time, crafting them from human hair, cellulose, and sheep's wool, held in place with beeswax.
Fast forward to the 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I, having endured hair loss due to smallpox, began the trend of wearing wigs. Her curly red wigs, known for their Roman styles, became famous, and it is said she owned over 80 wigs.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, wigs gained popularity with French royalty, particularly King Louis XIII, who wore them to cover his baldness. By the 18th century, King Louis XIV and XV had further propelled this trend.
In the 20th century, both men and women adopted wigs for different hairstyles. The quality improved significantly over time, and now the market offers a variety of human hair wigs, known by various names such as hair patches, toppers, or pieces. Both men and women utilize them for concealing baldness, adding volume, or experimenting with different styles.
The Hair Business in India
In recent decades, alongside the global boom of hair care products, the wig market has seen exponential growth. The industry reached a turnover of 4,800 crore INR in 2021 and is expected to grow to 8,200 crore INR by 2024.
According to Statista, India was the second-largest exporter of human hair in 2022, sending out approximately 1.17 billion INR worth of hair to destinations like Burma, Italy, Singapore, the UK, and Bangladesh. India also imported 16.96 crore INR worth of hair that year. These figures highlight the increasing demand for wigs and patches in India and worldwide. So, how exactly are these wigs and patches made?
The Making of Hair Patches
To understand the process of making wigs and patches, we visited the Gemeria Hair factory in Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh. Owner and director Shashi Kant Tyagi explained the process step by step. 'There are seven main steps in hair making. First, we participate in auctions to buy the hair, which then arrives at our factory in bags. These are sorted through the hackling process to detangle them.'
'Next, the entangled hair is separated based on texture (straight, curly), color, and length—this is called segregation. Then, the hair is sent for washing, thoroughly cleansed, and dried.'
‘Once dried, the hair goes through head setting, where the ends are uniformly trimmed. Then, the hair is crafted into wefts or strands, which are used to create wigs and extensions. The same goes for hair patches and wigs.'
Where Does the Hair Come From and What Is Its Cost?
Company director Mani Tyagi sheds light on the wigs and patches used in the Indian market. 'Our hair comes from South Indian temples, as the hair there is considered the healthiest. Their prices start from 9,000-10,000 INR per kilo and can go up to 58,000 INR. We create hair patches for men and hair toppers and extensions for women. Hair patch lengths range from 4 to 10 inches, while toppers can range from 10 to 30 inches.'
Mani elaborates, 'In the Indian market, the wigs used are of high quality. They are hand-knotted on monofilament fabric—strong, flexible, and durable material. It takes about 7-8 days for a single person to craft one wig.'
What Do Doctors Say About Hair Patches?
According to Dr. D.M. Mahajan, a senior dermatologist at Apollo Hospital Delhi, 'Hair patches can be safe, but it's important to ensure they're sourced from good vendors and made with quality materials. They should fit your skin well and cause no harm. Daily removal and application are safer, as prolonged wear can cause infection beneath the patch.'
Dermatologist and hair transplant surgeon Dr. Gaurang Krishna echoes similar sentiments. 'While wearing a hair patch is generally safe, we have observed some skin damage in users who wear it for many months or years. It’s advisable to periodically remove the patch for cleaning. Tape and glue-based patches are safer, allowing better scalp care.'
Intriguing Facts About Hair Wigs
Wigs and hair extensions have been part of Indian culture since ancient times. Historians note that in the Mughal Empire, male courtiers wore wigs as symbols of rank and status during the 16th and 17th centuries.
These wigs were often adorned with gems and embellishments and made with real hair. This tradition grew steadily, leading women in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to wear wigs for extra volume.
The cinema industry soon adopted wigs, with Indian actors and actresses donning them during the 1960s-1970s. This era marked the wigs' rise in popularity as they became widely recognized by the general public.
Emma Tarlo, a human science professor at Goldsmiths, University of London, and author of 'Entanglement: The Secret Lives of Hair' (2016), says, 'When the Manchu dynasty in China was overthrown in 1912, an order was issued for men to cut their queues (braided ponytails). Those who resisted had their queues cut forcibly. In the 1960s, China's hair business faced losses as the US banned so-called 'Communist Hair.' It was then that the Indian hair industry took center stage and thrived.'